August 21, 2015. I'm sure most of you have heard of the untimely death today of Sasha Petraske, founder of Milk and Honey in the Lower East Side and eventually London, The Varnish in Los Angeles, Dutch Kills on Long Island, and a few other important bars around the world.
Though I never got to meet the man, or even, I’m ashamed to say, drink in one of his bars, I feel a great deal of sadness at his passing. Sasha was one of the earliest adopters of modern craft cocktails in this country, and we all owe him a debt. He advocated for so many things that drinkers around the world take for granted: good ice, attention to detail, measuring pours, and professional demeanor as a standard for bartenders.
When Milk and Honey opened, no one else was doing what he did. The entrance was hidden to the public. He did no advertising. There was a code of conduct, mainly for gentlemen. He enforced the dictates of polite society and a time long gone by on a crowd of people more used to Alabama Slammers as the pinnacle of the drinking experience - yes, Dale DeGroff has a contemporary recipe in The Craft of the Cocktail.
Here’s a great video with a short interview and a drink – the Bee’s Knees.
Sasha was just married a few months ago to Georgette Moger. He had moved to Hudson, New York to work as a consultant. If you’re out tonight, or feel like a cocktail at home, please join me in raising a glass to Sasha Petraske.
Zachary Pearson, Editor
I cut the Meletti to 1 oz for a 2:1 cognac/amaro ratio. This results in an acceptable sweetness and cola/caramel flavor. While pleasant enough to sip, there is not sufficient separation between the Pierre Ferrand Cognac (I used Ambre) and the Amaro Meletti to recommend this cocktail. It seems like a third contrasting component is missing that would otherwise complete this drink.
Does anyone have a current source for Creme Yvette? I haven't been able to find it in the U.S.
I am not rating the posted cocktail, since I adjusted this from the 1937 Cafe Royale Cocktail Book ratios because I know the period cocktails often run a bit sweet with intense liqueur flavor. I used 2 oz Tanqueray, 1/2 Strega, 1/2 Noilly Prat Extra Dry, 2 dashes Regan's orange bitters, orange twist. This worked for my palate and I would rate it a 4, still substantial sweetness, but showcasing the herbal/botanical character of the Strega (which is similar to the Basque liqueur Izarra Jaune which I am fond of, a bit less sweet than Yellow Chartreuse, with more herbal character.) I will probably try this again with the Izarra to compare.
Good cocktail, bad name.
0.5 oz lemon juice worked fine - try 0.75 oz next time. Alternatively, lower Falernum a bit, as it is fairly assertive.