Shake all ingredients except the soda water WITHOUT ICE very vigorously for at least one minute, preferably longer -- the longer the better. Then add ice and shake for 1-2 minutes, as long as you can manage, until extremely cold and frothy. Strain into a tall thin glass (no ice), or a very large old fashioned glass, and top with soda water. Stir gently.
First appears in print in Kappeler's Modern American Drinks (1895) as the "New Orleans Fizz", using juice of half a lemon, 1/2 tablespoon fine sugar, 1 jigger (2 oz) Old Tom gin, 1/2 jigger milk or cream, and soda water. This recipe follows "New Orleans DRINKS and how to mix 'em" by Stanley Clisby Arthur, 1937.